Grown for their showy blooms and romantic fragrance, roses come in a dizzying array of forms, sizes, and types. Sorting them out can be confusing, even for experienced gardeners. With the myriad varieties of roses available, it’s hard to avoid making impulse purchases. If you start with a plan and know your limitations, you are less likely to suffer buyer’s remorse.

Here are some of our favorite varieties for low-maintenance roses that still have bloom power.

Knock Out® Roses

These easy-to-grow shrub roses will reward you EVERY DAY with a season-long show of blooms from spring to frost. With stunning colors to choose from, there are so many ways to enjoy Knock Out® Roses EVERYWHERE in your garden.

1. Petite Knock Out: The Petite Knock Out® Rose is the first ever miniature Knock Out® Rose! It has the same flower power and easy care as others in the family, but in an adorable, petite size! Plant in decorative containers for your porch or patio, or en masse for a dramatic pop of color!
2. Coral Knock Out Rose: A new color addition to The Knock Out® Family of roses. The unique coral color is even stronger in hot, humid climates. It blooms from spring through fall and maintains an upright to rounded habit. Young foliage is bronze red.
3. Pink Double Knock Out Rose: A bright, bubble gum pink version of The Double Knock Out® Rose that is very stable and unfazed by the heat. Classically shaped flowers bloom from early spring to the first frost. This plant has superior drought tolerance once established.

Drift® Roses

Drift® Roses are groundcover roses made easy. They are a cross between full-size groundcover roses and miniature roses. From the former they kept toughness, disease resistance and winter hardiness. From the miniatures, they inherited their well-managed size and repeat-blooming nature. The low, manageable habit of Drift® Roses makes them perfect for gardens small to large, for planters, and for mass commercial plantings.

1. Red Drift: The easy nature and natural beauty of Red Drift® lends to the success of this rose. The petite red flowers prove to be an elegant addition to any garden, especially when able to naturally drape over a rock wall or edge.
2. Peach Drift: The Peach Drift® Rose is one of the most floriferous dwarf shrubs available. Soft peach blooms cover the plant from mid-spring to the first hard freeze of late fall. Peach Drift® Rose pairs well with existing perennials in any landscape. The mature plant is approximately 2’ by 1½’ and exhibits strong disease resistance.

Hybrid Teas

Modern hybrid roses, introduced after 1867, are sturdy, long-blooming, extremely hardy and disease-resistant, and bred for color, shape, size, and fragrance. The hybrid tea roses, with one large flower on a long cutting stem, are the most popular rose in the world. Hybrid teas are valued for their long, sturdy stems, perfectly shaped flowers, and unparalleled fragrance. New varieties of hybrid tea roses are introduced every year, but some classics simply can’t be beaten. Most hybrid tea roses are reliably hardy in USDA zones 5–9.

1. Veteran’s Honor®: ‘Veteran’s Honor’ has deep, dark red blooms with a fragrance reminiscent of berries. It was introduced in 1999 to honor the men and women of the American Armed Forces and a portion of each sale goes to the Department of Veterans Affairs.

Heirloom Roses

Old roses – also called “old-fashioned roses” and “heirloom roses” – are those introduced prior to 1867. These are the lush, invariably fragrant roses found in old masters’ paintings. There are hundreds of old rose varieties – whose hardiness varies – providing choices for both warm and mild climates.

1. Queen Elizabeth: Queen Elizabeth is a grandiflora rose. It reaches four to six feet in height, with a spread of two to three feet. Bloom time is May, but it will rebloom off and on into the autumn. It has double blossoms that offer some fragrance. The color is pink, but with a silvery sheen to it.

It may be hard to know which roses to choose or what will grow best in your yard. We’re here to help. Email us at AskHomestead@homesteadgardens.com, or visit our stores.

And please follow us on social media and share photos of your gardens! Because we love plants as much as you do!

Photo Credit: Star Roses

The post A Rose is a Rose – Choosing Roses for Your Garden appeared first on Homestead Gardens, Inc..

Don’t put away your gardening tools yet! Spring planting season may be over, but there are actually many plants that can be added to the garden later in the year. These summer annuals are perfect for replacing short-lived spring annuals. Add these late-season pops of color to keep your garden looking its best this year.

Coleus

Color isn’t all about flowers! Coleus offers stunning foliage in a variety of colors, making it perfect to brighten up your garden late in the season. For best results, plant coleus in partial shade. You can also use it for container plantings. Keep the show going longer by pinching off any flowers that form.

Alternanthera “Purple Knight”

Much like coleus, alternanthera offers stunning foliage. It does best in partial shade to full sun, and can be used as a landscape plant or grown in containers. Late in the season, it’s a great filler for areas of your garden that are looking a little thin.

Pentas

Pentas bloom in shades of pink, white, and lavender. Their flowers are clusters of small trumpet-shaped blooms, with star-shaped openings. Butterflies and hummingbirds absolutely love them, and pentas love hot weather. You can’t beat them as a midsummer fill-in for sunny spots.

Tuberous Begonias

In Maryland, tuberous begonias grow best in containers with relatively good drainage. However, spending a little bit of effort to plant them will yield a big show. Their flowers bloom in almost every color, and they’ll keep growing strong until the first frost. They make wonderful hanging basket plants for porches, and can also be brought indoors to enjoy during the winter. Plant in full sun to partial shade.

Scaevola

Sometimes called “fan flower,” scaevola is a trailing annual plant with purple or white flowers. If your container gardens could use a pep-up, plant scaevola along the edges for long-lasting color. Prefers full sun to partial shade.

Wishbone Flower

Look for Torenia, or “wishbone flower,” as another summer container filler. It’s semi-upright with purple or dark pink flowers and creamy throats. A tough plant with a bit of tropical flair, it will bloom like crazy until frost.

New Guinea Impatiens

We love these garden workhorse flowers. You can basically plant them and forget them! Some varieties have darker leaves, but all have bright, almost tropical-hued flowers. Grow in full sun to partial shade in containers, or as a mass planting in your landscape beds. They’re real showstoppers!

Geraniums

Geraniums offer flowers in a variety of hues, and are great for attracting bees and butterflies to the garden. Plant geraniums in full sun to get the most blooms and water when the soil gets dry. Be careful not to overwater because this will increase the risk of disease. You can bring a pot of geraniums indoors to enjoy for the winter, too. Just make sure it gets bright light.

Don’t let your summer garden become lackluster! Fill blank spaces and add more color and life to your garden with these summer annuals. The beauty they bring is well worth the extra effort. For help finding what would work best in your garden, come into one of our store locations and speak to an expert today.

The post Summer Annuals to Brighten up Your Garden appeared first on Homestead Gardens, Inc..

How to Get the Most Out of Your Fruit Trees

To get the most out of your fruit trees, it’s important to care for them properly. Regular pruning, fertilizing, and watering are essential to keeping your trees healthy and productive. It’s also important to choose the right types of fruit trees for your climate and soil conditions. By selecting the right varieties and taking good care of them, you can enjoy a bountiful harvest of fresh fruit for years to come. So if you’re looking to elevate your gardening skills and improve your diet, consider investing in some fruit trees and start enjoying the fruits of your labor.

The Container Grown Difference

• • All of our fruit trees are grown in containers, which means that they have a well-developed root system before they come to you. Healthy roots lead to healthy fruits!
  • Our fruit trees are grafted for optimal results. The “knot” in the stem of the tree is the “bud union,” where the root system (selected for its deep rooting and spreading characteristics) meets the scion, or top part of the plant (selected for its fruit bearing qualities). 

Self-Pollinating v. Cross-Pollinating

• • Some fruit plants are self-pollinating, while the rest need to be cross-pollinated from nearby plants to produce fruit. This pollen transfer most often takes place with the help of bees. Fertilized ovules become seeds and will eventually enlarge and ripen into the fruit we know and love. 
  • If you want to grow a fruit tree that reproduces through cross-pollination, you will need at least two plants of the same fruit type  in order to pollinate.

Planting Your New Fruit Tree

• • You will need to consider light, soil, and spacing when choosing the right spot for your new fruit tree. 
  • Light: Fruit trees generally prefer light. Plant your tree somewhere that received at least a half day of full sun.
  • Soil: Fertile, well-drained soil is ideal for growing fruit trees. Most soils will be fine, but if you have heavy clay, consider working in some peat or leaf mold to increase the drainage for your tree.  Avoid planting fruit trees in wet, low, soggy locations.
  • Spacing: Read the guidance on the plant tag for specific instructions, but generally plant fruit trees at least 18-20’ from one another. This will allow space for the tree to grow and thrive.

Planting Step-by-Step:

• • Remove your new fruit tree from its container. 
  • Separate the roots a little bit at the bottom of the root ball so that they can spread easily. If the root ball is tightly packed, use a knife to score the roots vertically in 3 or 4 places. Root pruning of this type encourages new root development. 
  • Dig a hole deep enough that the bud union remains 1½ to 2 inches above ground level. 
  • Place your tree in the hole and fill one half of the hole with soil. Then, fill the hole to the top with water and wait for it to drain away. You can then fill the rest of the hole with soil.
  • For its first season, water your fruit tree once a week if it hasn’t rained. Do not let the tree dry out. 
  • You can also style your new fruit tree, by planting around the base like this

Fertilizing Your New Tree

• • Do not put fertilizer or manure in the hole when you plant the fruit tree. Wait a few weeks after you plant, and then apply ¼ cup of 10-10-10 fertilizer by sprinkling in a circle around the tree, about 1-2 feet from the trunk. Lightly work the fertilizer into the soil. 
  • Ask a Homestead Gardens associate to point you in the direction of an appropriate time-release fertilizer. 

Spraying for Bugs and Fungi

• • Ask a Homestead Gardens associate to direct you to the home orchard spray. Follow the directions on the label to protect your tree from disease and pests.

Pruning Your New Fruit Tree

• • Regular, annual, aggressive pruning is the key to successful home orcharding. 
  • First year pruning sets the eventual shape of the tree. If your tree is taller than 4-6 feet above ground, trim it down to that height after it is planted.
  • Thin out the inward-growing branches and any branches crossing over each other. Trim off the tips of larger branches to encourage growth. 
  • Any shoots or branches that comes from below the bud union should always be pruned. New stems that grow up from the ground are called “suckers,” and you can cut those off at ground level. Once the tree matures, suckering lessens.
  • If your fruit trees set fruit the first year, pick off some of the immature fruits, spacing them to about 8” apart on the branches. This will leave space for the fruits to ripen. This can be tough to do, but it’s worth it. If you don’t thin your fruits, you may get more fruit than your tree can handle, resulting in broken branches and small fruits. 
  • After your first year, pruning is helpful to shape your tree. Apple, pear, and cherry trees are best trained to a central leader (uppermost upright limb). Peach, nectarine, plum, and apricot trees should be trained to a vase-shape (no central leader). 

When to Prune

• • Apples and Pears should be pruned when they are dormant. Pick a pleasant, sunny winter day. 
  • Cherries should be pruned when the weather is hot. Wait until the tree has leafed out and warm late spring weather is established. Ideally, cherry trees are pruned in late May. 
  • Peaches, Nectarines, and Apricots should be pruned in the spring after the last frost date for your area.
  • Plums should be pruned aggressively both in the winter and in the height of summer to control the spreading nature of plum trees. 

Shop Our Fruit Trees

For more fruit tree-specific information, visit Hollybrook Orchards at www.hollybrookorchards.com.

Homestead Fruit Selection	Native Varieties Available?	Requires Cross-Pollination	Dwarfed Varieties Available
Almond
Apple
Apricot
Blackberry
Blueberry
Cherry
Chestnut
Fig
Grape
Hazelnut
Kiwi
Nectarine
Pawpaw
Peach
Peach (White)
Pear
Pear (Asian)
Persimmon
Plum
Raspberry

The post How to Get the Most out of Your Fruit Trees appeared first on Homestead Gardens, Inc..

Pollinator populations, like bees and butterflies, increase over the warm summer months, often when supplies of pollen and nectar are low. Planting perennials – especially natives – can help with the shortage and help out the pollinators. Native plants are the core of any habitat garden because local wildlife relies on native plants for survival.

What are Native Plants?

A plant is native if it has grown naturally in a particular region, ecosystem, or habitat without human introduction. They have formed symbiotic relationships with native wildlife over thousands of years, and therefore offer the most sustainable habitat for the planet.

Native plants help the environment the most when planted in places that match their growing requirements. They will thrive in the soils, moisture, and weather of your region. That means less supplemental watering, which can be wasteful, and fewer pest problems that require toxic chemicals. Native plants also assist in managing rainwater runoff and maintain healthy soil as their root systems are deep and keep soil from being compacted. Natives also help the planet by removing excess carbon from the air and storing it in their leaves and root systems.

Planting with Purpose Makes a Difference

Native plant gardens that incorporate blooming plants in all seasons are proven to increase pollinator abundance and diversity. Many also support songbird species. Each of these garden plots provides a “pit stop” habitat in areas broken up by our human presence.

The good news is you can enact change right where you live.

How to Create a Wildlife Habitat Garden

1. Start by choosing a location for your wildlife garden. Look at your landscape. Is the spot for your new garden full sun? Shade? Evaluate these elements first. Sun-loving natives need at least 6 hours of sun. Otherwise, look at more shade-loving native varieties.
2. Next, choose plants that will thrive in your Pick a combination of plants that include keystone plants. Keystone plants support 90% of butterflies, moths, and up to 60% of native bees in a specific ecoregion. Plants such as orange butterfly weed (Asclepias tuberosa), lanceleaf coreopsis (Coreopsis lanceolata), smooth blue aster (Symphotrychum laeve), and stiff leaf goldenrod (Solidago rigida) are good choices.
3. Design for a succession of bloom. Pollinators, specifically, rely on plants for food in four seasons, and your garden will be more interesting that way.
4. Place taller plants in the back, next medium-sized, and finally smaller plants in front.
5. Remove weeds from the bed before planting and keep up with them during the season.
6. Keep newly planted plants well-watered. After your first season, perennial natives will be adapted to the site and need less maintenance.
7. Enjoy!

Our Favorite Native Perennials to Attract Pollinators

1. Black-eyed Susan (Rudbeckia ssp.): Blooming heavily from midsummer to fall, black-eyed Susan always makes a strong comeback in spring. Every landscape is improved with a mound of this vigorous perennial bloomer. Grown best in full sun, but will tolerate partial sun as well.
2. Aster: The lovely pink or lavender blooms attract a wide range of late-season butterflies and beneficial insects. Darker purple strains look stunning with a light background such as a white picket fence. In a sunny spot, space plants 1-3” apart depending on the variety.
3. Joe pye weed (Eutrochium purpureum): Moist spots are perfect for this flower, which produces billows of airy pink florets in late summer. The native form can reach 3’-12’ tall, but improved cultivars grow to half that size, and they bloom in brighter colors, too. Best planted with a 2’ center for plenty of room to grow.
4. Stonecrop (Sedum): One of the most dependable perennials you can grow, ‘Autumn Joy’ and other vigorous varieties will quickly establish themselves as permanent garden residents in any sunny spot. The early fall flowers attract a wide range of beneficial insects, and make excellent cut flowers as well.

When we create wildlife habitat gardens in each of our backyards, it works. Research shows that wildlife habitat gardens can support 50 percent more wildlife than surrounding conventional landscapes. Wildlife can appear within days or even moments after food, water, cover and places to raise their young are introduced to the space.

Questions on how you can help support pollinators right from your garden? We’re here to help. Email us at AskHomestead@homesteadgardens.com, or visit our stores.

And please follow us on social media and share photos of your pollinator plants! Because we love plants as much as you do!

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You may think all you need to know about choosing plant pots is what they’ll look like with your decor but a pot is actually very important to your plant’s health. Use these tips to select a pot that’s right for you and your plant.

Terracotta Pots

Terracotta pots are an excellent choice for many houseplants especially if you are new to houseplants. Not only is there a beautiful aesthetic, but it also corrects the common mistake of over-watering because of its wicking qualities that are inert to natural clays. As they age they develop a unique natural patina and can add a touch of rustic charm to your home. These pots are made of baked clay and are porous, meaning they allow air and moisture through them. This makes them an excellent choice for plants that don’t tolerate wet roots like cacti and succulents. However, if you choose a terracotta pot for a moisture loving fern you’re going to need to water often.

Terracotta pots can be used outdoors during the summer but shouldn’t be left out during cold weather. Due to their porous nature terracotta pots are susceptible to freezing and cracking.

Glazed Ceramic

Another popular choice is glazed ceramic. They come in a wide range of colors and designs; they’re one of the easiest to find something that fits your unique style. They’re very durable and will last for years. They can also be used both indoors and out making them perfect for plants that seasonally transition to your patio during the summer months.

If the pot is glazed inside the pot as well as outside, they will not “breathe” like terracotta pots. If have moisture-loving plants or you are more experienced growers, this is an excellent pot choice. If you love glazed pottery but are uncertain about watering, look for pots that are partially glazed. The inside of the pot will be matte or natural feeling to the touch and have a better chance of breathing out excessive moisture.

Fiber Clay

Fiber Clay is manufactured with fiberglass, concrete and other recyclable materials. Like ceramic and terracotta, these pots can also be used both indoors and out. Fiber Clay also has the added benefit of being frost resistant. They also come in a variety of styles and are lightweight and durable.

Plastic Pots

Plastic pots are lightweight and affordable, but they will obviously need to be replaced long before their sturdier counterparts. Even UV resistant plastic will eventually break down in sunlight so these pots last longer indoors than on a patio or balcony. However, if you have a large plant that needs to be moved frequently or carried upstairs their weight has obvious advantages.

Drainage Holes

While some plants love moist environments, for succulents and cacti good drainage is a must. Always choose a pot with drainage holes and a tray to catch excess water to keep them looking their best. These pots can also come in handy if you’re new to houseplants and have a tendency to overwater.

Choosing a Size

If you know that your plant is going to get big it can be tempting to purchase a large pot. However, purchasing an oversized pot for your plant can actually slow their growth. Your plant may focus on filling the pot you’ve chosen with roots before putting on a lot of leafy growth. Choosing a pot 2-4 inches larger than your plant’s current pot will allow it to grow quickly.

Potting up plants gradually also helps give them a little boost because you’re adding fresh potting soil each time. Also, even if your houseplant is small it will look full in a smaller pot.

Finding the perfect pot for your plant is all about balancing aesthetic and practical needs. Homestead Gardens carries a wide selection of indoor and outdoor pottery so that you can find something that helps your plant thrive while complementing your home.

Want to learn more about how to better care for your houseplant? Check out this blog common houseplant fertilizers. Or come visit one of our Homestead Gardens locations to speak with an expert for more information.

The post What Type of Pot Should I Put My Houseplant In? appeared first on Homestead Gardens, Inc..

If you are a cat owner, you know that every cat is unique in their own way. While some cats are sleepy and slow, more prone to lounging and stretching, others are energetic and always looking for play.  How your cat interacts with houseplants is largely reflective of their personality: some cats will ignore your houseplants as if they don’t exist, while others will do quite the opposite. Unfortunately, my cat, Phoenix is the latter.

Phoenix is a large cat, and a hungry one. For him, two meals a day is not enough. Whenever he’s left alone, he resorts to eating houseplants. I’ve never actually caught Phoenix in the act of munching on my monstera, but I have come home numerous times to find broken pots on the ground, leaves with nibble marks, and the inevitable vomit that results (my favorite).

Some houseplants are toxic for pets, and it’s important for parents of cats and dogs to pay attention to what is, and what it isn’t. Given Phoenix’s proclivity for mischief and poor food choices, I have to consider carefully what houseplants are allowed inside.

Toxic Houseplants to Plants to Avoid

LILY

It’s important to note that lilies are only poisonous when consumed. Your vase of lilies safely set far from your cat’s ability to knock over or otherwise access should be fine. However, lilies are among the most toxic plants to cats, leading to kidney failure, seizures and death. In fact, even drinking water from vase that contained lilies is serious matter and your pet should be seen by a Veterinarian immediately. You cat could experience irreversible kidney failure if not seen within 48 hours.

The most dangerous lilies for cats include ¹:

• Asiatic Lily
• Daylily
• Easter Lily
• Japanese Show Lily
• Oriental Lily
• Rubrum Lily
• Stargazer Lily
• Tiger Lily
• Wood Lily

Other Highly Toxic Houseplants include ²:

• Azaleas
• Aloe
• Cyclamen
• Mistletoe
• Daffodils

While you want to avoid highly toxic plants lilies there are still less toxic houseplants that you should still remain cautious off. These have less serious consequences, but your cat might experience vomiting, diarrhea, weakness and irritation of skin, mouth and stomach. Usually, these reactions won’t last long but you should still be on the look out and  contact your Veterinarian if these issues persist.

Toxic Houseplants to be Cautious of include:

• Asparagus Ferns
• English Ivy
• Dieffenbachia
• Dracaena
• Pothos Plant
• Philodendron
• Fiddle Leaf Fig
• Snake Plant
• Poinsettia
• Primrose
• ZZ Plant

Safe Houseplants for your Cat

Now let’s move into a more positive direction and talk about houseplants that are suited for homes with cats! These have   little to none side effects to you cats. Make sure to do your research and double check that a houseplant is safe for cats before bringing it into your home. When in doubt, you can always google it!

Here are the houseplants that are non-toxic to cats:

• Ferns
• Spider Plant
• African Violets
• Air Plants
• Prayer Plants
• Cast Iron Plant
• Bamboo
• Hoya
• Echeveria and Haworthia Succulents
• Sedum
• Christmas Cactus
• Peperomonia (tastes yucky to cats)
• Calathea
• Zebra Plant
• Palms

You can view a full list of non-toxic houseplants by clicking here! (ASPCA)

Tips for your Cats & Houseplants to Co-Exist

In my personal experience, I have found it best to buy succulents that are difficult to nibble on . It also helped to put my houseplants on a higher table with little room to jump on.  However, this is a solution for my particular case and may not work for other cats. Especially since I know a good amount of cats that love jumping onto high counters. Check out the tips below for ideas on how to keep your cat out of your houseplants. (Preventive Vet)

1. Relocate your houseplants to inaccessible areas

An obvious solution is to place your houseplants where your cat cannot reach them. You can use hanging plants or wall shelves with no room to jump on. You can get creative as well, such as using an enclosed terrarium or a hanging air plant. If your houseplants are out of sight, then they will be out of their mind. (Hopefully..)

2.  Give your cat their own plant

Go to your local pet store and pick up a cat grass or catnip plant for your cat to eat instead of your houseplants! With their own plants to chew on, it’s a healthy way to keep them occupied.

3. Deter your cat with a citrus oil scent

Another way of safeguarding your cats from houseplants is to cat proof them. This involves spraying your plants with unappealing scents and putting lemon/orange peels in pots to deter them away.

You can also sprinkle some cayenne pepper around the leaves to

4. Entertain them from Boredom

One of the main reasons that your cat might be getting into your houseplants is because their bored. Having cat trees, scratchers or toys around the house will provide your cat with an alternative method of distraction. This will help deter them from your plants. Make sure to take the time to play with them as well, so they will be too tired to even think of Houseplants.

5. Set up Barriers between your cat and houseplants

You can create a barrier from your cat by caging your houseplants using chicken wire. Another barrier idea is placing a layer of rocks or stones across the soil to prevent your cat from digging into the soil.

Now that your informed about the houseplants you can bring into the house and ways for your cat to co-exist with them, check out the houseplant haven section at Homestead Gardens! We offer a variety of cat friendly houseplants to fit your needs. We also have cat toys and scratchers in our Farm and Pet section as well!

The post Your Guide to Living with Houseplants & Cats appeared first on Homestead Gardens, Inc..

A home filled with flourishing houseplants can be especially comforting during the winter months when the weather outside is dreary and night comes early.

Even a small office plant bringing a touch of green to your life can help keep you in a better mood. Taking care of houseplants is relatively easy once you get the hang of it but just like people houseplants may need some special care during the winter to keep looking their best.

Light

One of the most important things all plants need to survive is light. From spider plants to succulents they all require light to perform photosynthesis (make food). While many houseplants are well adapted to low light levels inside your home as the hours of sunlight per day dwindle away in the fall they may require extra light to keep looking their best. If you notice they are getting “leggy” or growing tall and spindly towards the light they’re probably not getting enough.

Try moving your plants to south facing windows to ensure they get as much light as possible throughout the day. Thankfully artificial lights will also do the trick if you’re unable to find a spot with enough light to keep your plant satisfied.

Water

While this may seem obvious, plants’ water needs may be different during the winter months. Despite drier air, most houseplants need less water during the winter months because they are somewhat dormant. Too much water could lead to root rot. Don’t just look at the surface soil to tell if it’s dry. Poke your finger into the soil or lift the pot to see how heavy it is to make your plant doesn’t still have plenty of water by its roots before you add more. We highly recommend a water meter to accurately check your water if you are new to growing houseplants or in a new environment. Also, consider using rainwater. It is high in natural nutrients.

Some plants are also affected by the humidity. While some desert succulents may do well in the dry winter air other tropical plants may struggle to meet moisture needs. For these plants, you may need to mist them with a spray bottle or even better add a humidifier to the room. It’s worth noting that adding a humidifier to the room could further cut down on the actual watering you need to do as well.

Fertilizer

Due to lower light levels, houseplants generally don’t grow much during the winter. For this reason, they need fewer nutrients and fertilizing can be held off until spring when the plants begin their summertime growth again.

Temperature

Most houseplants are native to warm climates making them well suited to life indoors. They generally don’t perform well in temperatures below 50°F. It’s best to keep your plants away from any cool drafts. Even though you want your plants to get as much light as possible you still want to keep them a few inches back from the window and if outdoor temperatures drop significantly you should move them away from the window or put a cloth or curtain between the window and the plant during the night.

Repotting

Try to avoid repotting your plants during the winter. Repotting can be really tough on plants and should be left to the spring or summer when they have more energy to put into recovery.

Pest Management

Watch for Common brown scale, Mealybugs, Aphids, Common whitefly, Spider mites, and Thrips. The best form of defense against houseplant disease and pests is to be on the offense. Carefully inspect your plants before you buy them. Always use clean pots and fresh potting soil when repotting and compost old potting soil for your outside garden. When you bring in a new plant, isolate your plant from other plants for a few days to a couple weeks as many pests can be soil born. Give so much room that leaves from one plant don’t touch the leaves of another plant. This kind of spacing is essential to get airflow and reduce the chances of transferring pests from one to another but also reducing mildew.

All is not lost if you experience a pest problem. Bring leaves, photos or even your whole plant into our free Diagnostic desk and we’ll get you back on track.

Research Your Variety

Overall knowing your variety’s specific needs is one of the best ways ensure your plant stays healthy and happy this winter. If internet searches don’t provide the desired results we’d be happy to answer any questions you might have.

Ask for Help 

If your plant seems under the weather and you can’t determine the cause, we encourage you to bring your plant in to talk with one of our experts. We’ll help you determine your plant’s problems and recommend solutions.

Houseplants have a number of benefits and can help keep your home feeling fresh and alive during the winter. Understanding their needs is key to keep them looking their best.

And for more tips to help care for your houseplants, come visit one of our Homestead Gardens locations.

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Edward O. Wilson was an America biologist, naturalist, and writer. His specialty was myrmecology, or the study of ants. In fact, he was considered the world’s leading expert on ants, and he was nicknamed Ant Man.

In his book, Biophilia, Wilson hypothesizes that humans possess an innate tendency to seek connections with nature and other forms of life. In fact, he argues, our natural affinity for life―what he refers to as biophilia―is the very essence of our humanity and binds us to all other living species.

Biophilia is the sensation you feel, absorb and remember when you stare at the golden sun rising over fields on a cloudy morning, shining through the transparency of a leaf and glistening like crystal on the morning dew. It’s the must of moulding leaves in fall, the turpentine scent of a pine forest, the sensuous smell and exquisite phenomena of blossoms on a tree.

Biophilia is also the fascination you feel watching your houseplant grow: new baby leaves unfurling to greet the world, vines stretching and lengthening, stems reaching for more height. It’s the curiosity that inspires you to get your hands in soil, to watch intently as your plant babies respond to sun and light and air much like a human or animal baby does: with wonder, curiosity and ultimately, joy.

Since we tend to spend so much time indoors, bringing plants inside bridges the biophilic connection between your daily life and the shapes, colors and sounds of nature.

• Stress is minimized
• Focus is renewed
• Optimism is restored

Ways you can get more biophilic

Incorporate more plants into your daily inside and outside life with a plant display. Here’s How.

Assess your light

There is a houseplant for every space and light condition. All you need to do is choose a space and pay attention to the light sources: are you using a bright, sunny window? Maybe a shelf well back from any sunlight? Something in between? Make sure that if you are planting in a group that all the plants you want to use require similar conditions.

Assess your air flow

Some plants like more humidity, others prefer drier conditions. Some finicky plants don’t like hot or cold air from vents. Again, make sure all the plants you’re working with like the same type of air flow and temperature, otherwise you could end up with diseases and problems that are difficult to diagnose and heal.

Assess your tools

Make sure you have access to water or can efficiently use watering tools. Also make sure that your plant is set in a place that won’t be ruined by drips of water or drabs of soil.

Get creative

Adding a natural element to your life should be easy and beautiful. Mostly, it should reflect you! Incorporate what inspires you, what you dream of, and what makes you happy. Here are a few ideas to get you started:

• Plants on your desk
• Plants on a shelf
• Plant walls, inside or out

The post Biophilia: Houseplants’ connection to nature appeared first on Homestead Gardens, Inc..

Elevate your Christmas celebrations with a vibrant centerpiece that infuses your holiday home with warmth, joy, and a sense of togetherness. Surround yourself with twinkling lights and the sweet scent of evergreen as you create cherished memories with your loved ones. Discover expert tips on selecting and caring for your perfect Christmas tree to add a touch of magic to the season. Allow us to accompany you on this festive journey, tailored to your unique style. Experience the true spirit of Christmas with our exquisite collection of centerpiece ideas and holiday decorations.

Types of Christmas Trees

Fraser Fir

The distinctively scented Fraser Firs are the most popular Christmas tree variety. The branches are angled slightly upward, which makes them perfect for hanging ornaments and lights. These trees also retain their dark green 1/2” to 1” needles well.

Douglas Fir

Douglas Firs’ needles have a beautiful, sweet scent when crushed. The soft, flat, dark blue-green needles radiate out in all directions. Due to its shape and lovely scent, the Douglas Fir variety makes up more than half of the Christmas trees sold in the United States!

Noble Fir

Another great option is the Noble Fir. It has sturdy, evenly-spaced branches that are angled slightly upward. It is the premier choice for supporting precious bulbs of weight or size and its long-lasting ability makes it a popular choice for trees, as well as greenery for wreaths and garlands. 

Nordmann Fir

The Nordmann Fir has attractive, dark, glossy needles and the best needle retention of all trees. It does not have a fragrance, so it’s a good choice for families with allergies or those who don’t enjoy the typical tree aroma.

Potted and Ball and Burlap Trees

Some families have created a Christmas tree corner in their yard and plant their new tree there each year. Others care for the tree through the winter and donate it to a charity or silent auction (it is great for school fundraisers!) in late Winter or early Spring. Choosing a potted tree like Blue Spruce or Alberta Spruce means you’ll be opting for a much smaller tree than you could otherwise have, but if you follow the directions below, you can plant it outdoors in the spring and enjoy it for longer. 

Which Type of Tree is Best for You?

When it comes to choosing the perfect tree for your Christmas celebrations, there are several factors to consider. From the length of the needles to the delightful fragrance they emit, and even the strength of the branches to hold your precious ornaments – it all plays a role in creating that magical Christmas ambiance.

As you navigate through the options, it’s important to note that most common Christmas trees have short needles. However, if you desire a fragrant experience, consider the Fraser Fir, known for its delightful aroma. Additionally, for excellent needle retention, look into the Noble, Nordmann, Fraser, and Douglas trees, as they are known for their remarkable ability to keep their needles intact.

One outstanding choice is the Noble Fir, which offers a harmonious blend of attributes. Not only does it retain its needles exceptionally well, but it also provides sturdy branches to showcase all your favorite ornaments, ensuring a beautiful and joyous display throughout the holiday season. So, take your time to select a tree that perfectly suits your preferences and needs, as every detail contributes to the magic of your Christmas festivities.

How to Keep Your Christmas Tree Fresh the Whole Season

To maintain the freshness and longevity of your Christmas tree, it’s crucial to keep the water well of the tree stand filled. Regularly check and maintain water levels, as fresh trees can consume up to one gallon of water per day. Using a Christmas tree preservative like Prolong Tree Preservative, available at Homestead Gardens, can also enhance the tree’s lifespan by preserving its needles while providing essential hydration.

When selecting a tree stand, consider its size capacity, both in terms of height and diameter, to meet your specific needs. Opt for a stand with a generous water capacity and an easy refilling process. We highly recommend Bowling’s Last Stand for your tree.

Remember to position the tree away from heat vents and other sources of warmth to keep it cool. Cooler locations are ideal for maintaining the tree’s freshness.

If you have pets, it’s important to secure the tree to the wall to prevent any accidental toppling. Adorned Christmas trees can be alluring to playful pets, especially young dogs and cats. Use fishing line to attach the tree to hooks on the wall for added stability.

For potted trees, follow these guidelines: if you plan to replant the tree outdoors after the holidays, limit its indoor stay to a few days. Subsequently, return it outside and postpone planting until spring. Treat potted trees similar to traditional Christmas trees by watering regularly and keeping them away from heat vents. Be sure to care for the tree throughout winter and spring until it is fully established in the garden.

Christmas trees bring joy and vibrancy into homes during the holiday season. Choose the perfect tree for your family and take care of it properly to enjoy its beauty throughout the entire season.

The post Christmas Tree Shopping & Care Tips appeared first on Homestead Gardens, Inc..

To ensure your wreaths and swags stay fresh and beautiful all season long, here are some valuable tips that you shouldn’t miss. By implementing these effective strategies and techniques, you can enhance the festive charm they bring to your home and create an inviting atmosphere that impresses your guests. Picture this: stunning wreaths and swags exuding holiday cheer, their vibrant colors and exquisite textures captivating everyone’s attention from the moment they step foot into your home till the season’s end. Get ready to embrace a season filled with unparalleled vibrancy, beauty, and the joyous spirit of the holidays.

Making sure your holiday greens last

• When it comes to choosing holly for decorations, it’s important to pay attention to some crucial details. Seek out leaves that are glossy and firm, devoid of any unsightly black spots. This guarantees that you’re selecting holly that is fresh and vibrant. Furthermore, if the berries on the holly easily detach, it’s a clear sign that the holly is not fresh.

•  However, it’s important to note that holly and mistletoe berries can be toxic, especially for small children and pets. If you have little ones or furry friends at home, it’s crucial to be cautious. One solution is to remove the holly berries before using them in your decor or consider using artificial holly as a safer alternative. By doing so, you can still enjoy the festive charm without worrying about any potential harm.

•  Another tip to keep your fresh-cut greens in optimum condition is to store them in a protected area, such as a garage, until you’re ready to decorate. This helps shield them from harmful effects of wind and direct sunlight, preserving their freshness for longer.

•  Before arranging your greens, give them a good soak in cold water overnight or for up to 24 hours. This hydrates the foliage, ensuring that the needles absorb moisture, resulting in a more vibrant and long-lasting display. A laundry or bath tub works well for this task. For an extra freshness boost, you can add a product like Prolong to the soaking water, as it helps extend the lifespan of your greens.

•  After soaking, allow the greens to drip dry for about an hour in a shady and well-ventilated area. This step helps remove excess moisture, preventing any potential issues such as water damage or mildew.

•   To further protect your greens from drying out, it’s recommended to spray them with an anti-desiccant, such as Wilt-Pruf or Wilt Stop. These products form a clear and flexible protective coating that helps minimize moisture loss in the stems, needles, and leaves. However, please note that it’s important to avoid using anti-desiccants on junipers or berries. Once you’ve sprayed the greens, allow them to dry completely before proceeding with decorating and hanging.

•  When it comes to hanging fresh greens, it’s crucial to avoid placing them between a main door and a storm door that receives direct sunlight. This can create a greenhouse effect, causing the greens to dry out quickly and shed their needles.

•  To prolong the life of your fresh-cut greens, consider misting them with water daily. This helps maintain their moisture levels and keep them looking vibrant for an extended period.

•  If you plan to add lights to your fresh-cut greens, opt for the newer LED type. These lights have a longer lifespan and generate less heat compared to older incandescent lights, ensuring safety and longevity for your decorations.

•  Lastly, a simple tip to extend the lifespan of your fresh-cut greens is to lower the thermostat in your home. The cooler temperature helps slow down the drying process, keeping your greens looking lush and vibrant throughout the holiday season.

What Homestead Carries

There are a wide variety of greens that you can use to add a touch of natural beauty to your floral arrangements. Some popular options include Boxwood, Douglas fir, Holly (available in green or variegated), Incense Cedar, Juniper, Noble Fir, Princess Pine, Silver Fir, White Pine, Western Cedar, Magnolia, and Oregonia. These greens can provide a lush and vibrant backdrop to complement your flowers.

If you’re looking to add some accents and unique elements to your arrangements, there are plenty of options to choose from. Consider including Baby’s Breath for delicate and airy texture, Eucalyptus for a fragrant touch, Birch Branches for a rustic charm, Camellia Leaves for a glossy and elegant look, Bear Grass for graceful and flowing lines, Curly Willow for a whimsical twist, Red Twig Dogwood and Yellow Twig Dogwood for a pop of vibrant color, Birch Poles for a natural and earthy element, Winterberry Stems for a burst of festive red berries, and Pine Cones for a hint of rustic charm.

Seeking inspiration for decorating? Explore a variety of creative ideas and designs to enhance your space. Discover inspiration right here!

The post How to Care for Holiday Greens appeared first on Homestead Gardens, Inc..